My remarks will be aimed at the KOA campground industry, but there are other major players for which I could make the same arguments.

Not too many years ago we were really pro KOA campers. The KOA’s provided you with a nice site, clean accommodations, and friendly people at a reasonable rate. KOA’s were a place where you knew what to expect, like a McDonalds Fast Food Restaurant, or Pringles Potato Chips.  KOA’s were pretty much all the same and that was a good thing!  Over the last few years we have seen some of the KOA’s that we really enjoyed, take a turn for the worse.  We can’t say that all KOA’s are declining in quality because we haven’t visited each one.  However, it’s enough of a change that we have taken notice.

While our experience has been that the KOA owners and employees are still friendly, it takes more than that for a good camping experience.  We have seen a transition where some of these campgrounds are becoming more of a trailer park for long term folks. Now we understand that a somewhat stable income from full timers (or seasonal campers) is essential to being profitable; but the change has really come without any sort of standards. According to a letter I received from KOA headquarters, they do not get involved in how the campground manages its long term camping arrangements.  We think that’s a huge mistake.

KOA HQ suggests you complain to the franchise owner if you think their campground looks trashy.  I think you can imagine how well that is going to be received.  Once back in 2010 I actually tied to have a civil conversation with a KOA franchisee about the poor condition of their campground.  That conversation went south very quickly.  One must ask themselves then,  what is the purpose of being the KOA corporation if there are no enforceable standards?

Just to be clear, we have nothing against long term campers.  We just dislike the lack of standards around how long term camping is managed.

Some of these campgrounds have changed from being a really decent campground to a really sad experience.  Some going downhill in less than a year. For example: Travel Trailers and Fifth Wheels parked with loads of junk around them (Tables, refrigerators, tarps, and other unsightly objects).  This includes many having large dog pens with many dogs outside unsupervised and raising a ruckus. The last KOA we stayed at looked like a zoo of cages.  One camper had about a fifty potted plants all over his site along with other miscellaneous stuff (crap).  To make matters worse these sites were not large. If this were an exception in the KOA network I wouldn’t even write about it, but it seems to rapidly becoming the rule.

It seems that the KOA organization needs to do one of a number of things:
1) Send independent teams as anonymous campers to critically review their individual campgrounds. If they are substandard, then give them 60 days to clean up their act or pull their franchise license
2) Set a standard for how long term campers are to maintain their sites and behavior. For example, any long term site must look as if they just pulled in for the night. Nothing can be stacked up outside and all residents must abide by the same rules that night campers have.
3) Determine a percentage for long term vs short term sites and enforce it.
4) Move all the long term tenants to their own section in the campground, preferably somewhat out of site.

I understand that KOA is getting roughly 10% off all the camping revenue at these campgrounds and so they may be reluctant to do anything but watch the revenue drop as people decide it just isn’t worth the stay. In addition they have come up with a new designation for their campgrounds: Journey, Holiday, and Resorts. We stay primarily at the Journey because we are usually on the way to somewhere else and only need a one night stay. The journey would be the least expensive of the KOAs and believe me even with a KOA discount it’s not what I would call cheap camping – certainly not for what we have experienced.

Despite the KOA’s that have faltered there are still good ones out there;.  You will see from our blog that when we find a good KOA we not only write about it, we also link you to their site.  We always approach the owners of the KOAs we have been happy at and tell them to “stay the way they are”.  I think those owners appreciate the feedback, and we are happy to give it.

I hope KOA does an about face in the near future and becomes its old reliable self – they are still a great option for getting from point A to point B without driving hours out of the way.   For those owners that have maintained a high standard at your KOA – We thank you!  Please don’t change.

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Palo Duro Canyon is the second largest canyon in the United States,  the only one larger is the Grand Canyon.  Palo Duro Canyon has been inhabited for around 12000 years. The Clovis and Folsom people were the first to live here, hunting mammoth and bison.  Later the Apache, Comanche and Kiowa Indians lived in the canyon until forced out in the mid 1870s.  Shortly thereafter the canyon became a cattle ranch and is still operated by descendants of one of the original partners.

If your interested in Camping here, you will need to be aware of a few things:

1. Don’t rely completely on Garmin to get you there. My GPS took me down a residential area to a place where a bridge once existed, but it must have been torn down long ago. So we needed to back track and then find a different path to the park.
2. You will need a state park pass or you will need to pay a daily park entrance fee.  The Park Pass is $70.00 and allows you access to all of the State Parks in Texas for an entire year.  Additionally, having a park pass gets you an extra discount on your camping, which is already a bargain.
3. The check-in process is a little strange; even though you have reservations you will be required to pull off to the side of the road after you pull past the guard station, then go into the office to complete the check in process.  There are only a few spots to pull off, so that part of the process could use some improvement.
4. Signage for our section of the campground was non-existent.  We had to rely on the campground map which doesn’t specify distances, only land marks (e.g. turn after the fork in the road but before the dump station).  Signage overall needs to be better in the park.
5. There is no Wi-Fi and you may not get cellular service at your campground. We had neither but actually that was a pleasant change. We were there to kick back and relax with the puppies.
6. There are rattle snakes and they warn you about them; but we had no encounters the entire time we were there.
7. Dump stations are limited but we never saw a line of RVs waiting to use them.
8. If you are in the last part of the campground in the park, as we were, it is an 8 mile drive from the park entrance at 30 miles per hour, through sometimes steep and curving roads.  Both Juniper and Mesquite campgrounds are at the far end of the canyon.   So plan on another 15 minute ride, at least, to get to those campsites.
9. Be careful when you walk your dog(s) as there are some pretty sharp thistles just off the path ways.  The ground cover for the most part is just wild vegetation, not grass.
10. FILL UP with gas at the last city before the park or you will pay a premium at the park for fuel.  It’s about 20 miles to the nearest gas station outside the park.

Now all that being said, I have to say that I don’t think there is a bad campsite in the entire park.  The views are incredible.  It is really amazing to look out your window and be surrounded by the canyon.  We liked it so much that we are planning a return trip next spring.

The park has numerous hiking trails that range from easy to difficult.  The most famous trail in the Park is the “Light House trail”, it is 2.72 miles one way.  They recommend that you take a gallon of water per person on this trail as they have the most heat related fatalities on this path.  We went fairly early in the morning when it was cool, and once we reach the trail end we had some grapes and water, then started back.  It took less than three hours to complete the trail.

For an easy trail consider taking the “Paseo Del Rio” trail.  This is a one mile trail (one way) which leads you to and 1800’s cowboy dugout cabin.

There are 13 trails throughout the park.  If you like hiking you will not get bored during your stay here.  However,  it is just as nice to sit at your campsite and enjoy the peace and the views of the canyon.

One of the longer hikes is the lighthouse trail. This is probably the most popular attraction at the park. If you are hiking this trail during the warmer weather you should make sure to take water. It will be a three mile hike to the lighthouse rock pillar. The hike itself is not a difficult one, but it is not a fast hike either. The trail dips and climbs in places and we found ourselves crossing some areas that had standing water.

Even though we had moderate weather when we stayed at Palo Duro, the hike on the Lighthouse Trail definitely warmed us up. So, again make sure you take water with you. Also don’t be surprised if you run into people walking their dogs on this trail.

There is also the “Trading Post” where you can get a breakfast sandwich or a hamburger if you want a break from cooking at your campsite.  We stopped for lunch one day and had the hamburger and fries and it was very good.

If you want to go horseback riding that is also available inside the park.

We could probably say a lot more about the canyon but I’ll let a few pictures speak for themselves.  Don’t miss an opportunity to visit this place, even if it’s only for a day.

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Luckily for us this is a really short drive from our home just north east of Dallas; about 2.5 hours which makes the ride really easy for the girls (dogs).

There are a number of campgrounds to pick from in the area.  We chose Fernbrook RV Park because they were centrally located between Longview and Kilgore Texas.  Their nightly rates are decent and they do have a weekly rate if you want to spend an entire week in the area, which would be easy to do.

It became apparent to us as soon as we arrived, that this is a really nice campground.  The grounds are beautiful and well maintained. The sites are nice and level with a decent amount of space between trailers.  The check in process was quick and the owners are helpful and friendly.

Tammy and I always say that if you have a campground with long-term campers, the campground should enforce a standard so that it doesn’t look cluttered or trashy;  this is the case at Fernbrook.  All of the sites, including longer term campers, were nice and clean.  Although we were only there for four days, I would be happy to go back to this campground anytime.

Our Spot At Fernbrook – A Great Campground!

There were at least three activities that we would do:

• 1)  Visit Jefferson Texas and take the Historic Walking Ghost Tour.  We had heard and read a great deal about this tour, and it was the main reason for the trip.
• 2)  Visit the East Texas Oil Museum in Kilgore.
• 3)  The Texas State Railroad in Palestine.

If you plan on visiting these three attractions, the ghost tour may be too intense for really small children because it is a relatively long tour (much longer than they advertise), and secondly, as a participant you will be moving around really old buildings in the dark.  That’s not to say you couldn’t take children, you’ll just need to take extra precautions.  The East Texas Oil Museum, like any museum, will be great for the kids.  Obviously the attraction your children will like the most will probably be riding the steam train at the Cotton Belt Depot Museum.

Besides the three activities mentioned above, we ended up stumbling onto the Rangerette Showcase and Museum (a pleasant surprise) and spent a morning at Tyler State Park.  Both of these places are worth visiting.  If you have the time, add them to your list.

The Historic Walking Ghost Tour of Jefferson Texas

Jefferson is a very interesting old town and it was about 90 minutes from our campground.  We decided to get to Jefferson a little early so we could grab some dinner before the tour and had a really nice meal at Auntie Skinner’s Riverboat Club.  At first when we entered the restaurant we thought there was no way we would get seated,  It was really crowded;  but we found a table right away.  The service was great and I had one of the better rib-eye steaks I’ve ever had.  If you don’t like eating where folks are still allowed to smoke then you may want to pass this place up.  We really didn’t find the smoke as offensive as some who have reviewed it on sites like tripadvisor.  I think it’s a great place to eat and I wouldn’t hesitate to go back.

A look inside Auntie Skinner’s

Oddly, there was an old picture on the wall that had a women that looked just like our Daughter-In-Law in it.  This was a little creepy – like in the movie “The Shining”, and really set the mood since we were heading to the ghost tour.

After dinner we walked to the intersection where the tour begins and waited for the guide to check everyone in.  You can buy tickets on-line for this tour.   I recommend going that route versus standing in line to buy them in person.  To visit their site for information or to by tickets click here.

Get Ready For The Paranormal…Maybe!

The tour guide will give you a lot of information about people who lived in the town during the 1800’s,  how they met their untimely deaths; and the buildings that they haunt.  Beyond the ghost stories, of which there are many,  there is also a lot of historical information relayed by the guide during the tour.  We found that to be worth the price of the tour alone.

As I mentioned, there is a great deal of walking on this tour, and a lot of moving about in old buildings in the dark.  Expect to spend a lot of time in each building because everyone is encouraged to take pictures (just in case something paranormal shows up in the photos).  Needless to say there were a lot of smart phones constantly flashing as we moved from building to building.

One of the many creepy buildings on the Ghost Tour.

We didn’t experience any paranormal activity on our tour but really enjoyed all the stories associated with the town of Jefferson Texas.  Even if you don’t experience anything paranormal you’ll still be glad you went on this tour.

The East Texas Oil Museum

This museum is actually located on the campus of Kilgore College in Kilgore Texas.  This is a beautiful campus with beautiful grounds and plenty of parking.

Sitting in front of the museum is a huge oil derrick, so this building is hard to miss.  They have designed this museum to give you a feel of what life was like back in the 1930’s during the oil boom.   When you enter the museum you will be surrounded by artifacts and pictures dating back to the early days of the oil boom;  as well as pictures of some of the people who were responsible for the oil operations.

The museum also has a section that makes it seem as if you have gone back in time to the era when Texas hit it big in the oil industry.

East Texas Oil Museum – Old Town

This old town has a movie theater as well, where you can see a film on the history of the oil industry in Texas.  It’s very informative and the kids will really enjoy a part in the movie when the oil gusher strikes,  and the whole theater shakes.  Plan on spending a couple hours here, it is an enjoyable and educational experience.

Once we left the museum our plan was just to head back to camp.  However,  at the end of a nearby street we spotted the Kilgore Rangerett Showcase and Museum.   It is located in the Physical Education (PE) Complex, which is located at the intersection of Broadway and Ross;  on the Kilgore campus.

This little gem is located just a block or two from the East Texas Oil Museum and might be Kilgore’s best kept secret.  The Rangerette’s are the world’s best-known collegiate drill team, traveling across the United States and have been on several world tours.

In 1939 Dean B.E. Masters, (looking for a way to attract women to the college and to keep folks in their seats during half time)  recruited Gussie Nell Davis to create something special, and the Rangerette’s were born.

The Museum is full of memorabilia from 1940 forward including a movie that you can watch that explains the history of the Rangerette’s as well as Gussie Nell Davis.  The person that was managing the museum the day we were there was a former Rangerette, and she gave us a great deal of background information and some great personal stories.

You may want to plan on spending an hour or more at this museum, we highly recommend it.

Texas State Rail Road

This was our chance to take a ride on a real steam-powered locomotive.  Their round-trip excursions depart from the Rusk Depot at 11:00 am and return at 3:00 pm. The trip is ninety minutes each way with a one hour stop for lunch at the Palestine depot.  So keep in mind this will be a four-hour excursion.  It was a bit of a knuckle biter on the way there because we were running behind schedule.  We were afraid we might miss our departure, but as it turned out we arrived with five minutes to spare.  The depot is located at Park Road 76 in Rusk Texas.

The Texas state prison system established the railroad in 1881 and the Prison Inmates actually built the rail line. After the initial construction, the train provided a way to transport logs to the Rusk Prison.  The prison would then utilize the logs as fuel.  Between 1906 and 1909 the railway was extended.  The inmates expanded the rail line to its final destination of Palestine Texas.

One thing we were unprepared for (and not informed of) is that a good part of the rail had been destroyed by spring rains and was under reconstruction.  So we were only able to enjoy half of the train ride, and as a result there was no lunch stop.  This was a bit of a disappointment for us, not only because of the shorter ride;  but also because we were planning on getting a snack during the lunch stop.

Another option for lunch is to bring your own along with you.  The only caveat is that the bag or cooler of food must be able to fit under your seat on the train.

Due to the abbreviated ride we thought there should have been a discounted price on the tickets, but that was not the case.  So make sure the route is completely open before you book your tickets so that you are getting the full four-hour excursion for your money.  Although we found it to be a little pricey that was only due to the fact that we didn’t get the full trip we paid for.  If you take into account that the trip should be four hours long, then the price is reasonable.

The lowest ticket fare is $32.00/person for standard seating with no air conditioning (just open windows).  Tickets for children between the ages of 2 and 12 will cost $20.00.  There is a higher priced ticket available if you want to sit in air-conditioned passenger cars with a beverage and snack service.  Personally I think $65.00 per adult and $40.00 per child for that type of service is a just too much to pay, others may feel differently.

As with many activities, pets are not allowed on the train unless they are service animals.

The Steam Train Turning around to take us back to the Depot in Rusk.

Since 1977 this steam train has been featured in a number of movies and commercials.  The setting is perfect for being used in movies that need a vintage atmosphere.  It feels and looks as though you have stepped back in time from the minute you arrive at the depot.  The depot also serves as a museum but by the time we returned it was closed for the day.

In conclusion,  this may be your best way to take a step back into history with your family.   We enjoyed this excursion and think you will too.

Tyler State Park

Tyler State Park Store

It would be very hard, if not impossible to find something negative about this park.  You can boat, fish, hike, and more importantly camp.  The day pass will cost you $6.00 per adult and is free for children 12 and under.  Of course you can get a year pass for all Texas State Parks for $70.00.  That is a real deal if you spend a lot of time camping in state parks.

If you would like to do some boating here, you can either rent or bring your own.  They allow motors on boats but they cannot exceed five miles per hour on the lake.  If you are looking to do a little fishing, you can actually borrow fishing equipment.  Then go down to the lake and take your shot at catching crappie, perch or catfish.  There are three fishing piers so you will easily find a spot to set up.

There are some really nice campsites here for travel trailers.  They have everything from only water hook ups all the way to full hook ups.  We have a plan to visit this park in the future with our travel trailer because it is really hard to find a bad site here.  In addition, the size of the sites are large which easily will accommodate our two dogs, and provide some privacy.   The bathrooms in the camping loops are clean as well.  Please keep in mind if you travel with  your pets, they will not be allowed in any of the parks buildings.  I don’t believe that is any different than any other park we have visited.

The Park has 18 Premium full hook up sites and a view of the lake for $28.00 per night.  I would be hard pressed to find camp sites this nice anywhere for under $50.00 per night.   There are 39 sites without a lake view, but still excellent for $24.00 per night – a really unbelievable rate.  There are 20 sites that have water and electricity for $20.00 per night; and 39 additional sites that are water only for $16.00.  They also have cabins and screen shelters if you are traveling without your travel trailer.

There are over 13 miles of trails running through the park and they are absolutely beautiful.  Tammy and I decided to walk the path that went around the lake, and that may have taken us about an hour.

The trail around the lake at Tyler State Park

One of the strange things about the park is that it has a subtropical climate.  The park gets about 44 inches of rain each year and averages 80 degrees in the summer. That seems like a very moderate climate in the summer given that it is in Texas. It averages 46 degrees in the winter.  That is still warmer than Wisconsin.

The Lake at Tyler State Park

In short, this is a great spot for camping, fishing, or hiking.  Plan on spending some time at Tyler State Park whether it’s for a week or just a day;  it will be well worth your visit.  For more of our review on Tyler State Park click here.

So as you can see there is a lot to do in East Texas. Most importantly there is plenty to do if you are traveling with children.   In our opinion a week would be a reasonable amount of time to spend here.  You could do a fair number of tours and still spend some time kicking back at camp.

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Tammy and I have always been pretty fond of campgrounds that offer large pull through sites with full hook up, cable, and WI-FI.  Of course those requirements come with a cost.  Sometimes the cost is not only dollar value but it may also be a site that you wouldn’t have stayed at if you had seen it before you checked in (sites placed too close together, horrible Wi-Fi, etc…).

Today most folks feel they need a lot of the extras when they travel.   However if you can see yourself surviving for a week without WI-FI, and cable TV, and using a dump station;  then you have greatly expanded the camping choices available to you.

We’ve found that the benefits of county campgrounds can sometimes outweigh the losses.  Many county parks have very large sites that are almost private.   The fees are much less, almost half the price of what you would pay at your standard chain campground.  In addition “Air” TV pulls most of the major channels and some additional ones that we enjoy watching.  Our TV at home records the programs we are addicted to.  So we can always get caught when we return home.

As you can see from the picture below, I think we had the nicest site at this county campground.  Not only was it secluded, the space was so large that it also allowed our Girls (the dogs) to enjoy a great deal of time outside.  At the price that some of these county campgrounds charge, you have to ask yourself; ” is this even a break even proposition for them”.  Between the upkeep of the campground, shelters, bathrooms, and the electricity and water;  I really don’t know how they do it.

County Campgrounds can be a nice surprise

Hannah County Campground

Kendra County Campground

It’s easy to stay for extended periods if you are willing to purchase a portable dump tank.  They are not horribly expensive and give you the flexibility to roll to the campground dump station occasionally.  We own the “Tote N Store” model below but there are many to chose from that make extended stays without sewer hook-up bearable.  If you’re really creative you can probably make your black tank last as long as your stay. That way you can just use the dump station as you leave the park.  However, this probably means you are going to use the county park’s bathrooms and showers.  You can always just use your own bathroom for the 2:00 AM bathroom breaks.

Apart from the county parks there are many great state parks that have excellent camping as well.  Many county and state campgrounds have an on-line presence.  They allow campers to book on-line and view a campground map.  This allows you to get a feel for what the campground is like before you commit to a stay.

We love the State and County Campgrounds and think you will too.

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